The name of Batik for Indonesian indigenous clothing might
not be strange for everyone in the world. Since the
Dutch colonization of Indonesia starting 17th century
the name of batik has been spreaded in Europe as famous
as the spice islands of India. The question of where
and when was batik started to be made or when it was
invented in terms of design and technique of making,
many historians have researched it and the answer is
Central Java or especially in the region of Yogyakarta
and Solo today. The unique design, color, and weaving
is one of the character that made batik is a product
of it own and belong to a local genius.
Their
traditional technique of producing batik is as unique
as the batik itself, a piece of woven cloth or today
a piece of fabric is drawn for the patterning. Traditional
patterns are mostly taken from patterns made in ancient
time such as found on the temple of Borobudur, Prambanan,
Kalasan and others. This pattern is carefully laid out
on a piece of cloth by pencil. Then this pattern is
covered with wax. The tool to lay the wax is called
" canting " looks like a kettle for boiling
water, only its size is small. This canting is used
to boil the wax and strike the wax on the pattern though
its fountain, function like a traditional pen. After
the patterns are all covered by wax then the whole piece
is soaked to intended color for some time. After the
color completely seeped into the fibre then the wax
is melted by boiling water. So the areas covered by
wax will remain as its original color. If another color
is intended to be made on the cloth then the same process
will be repeated as much as colors as intended. This
is the general process of the making of Batik by traditional
technique in Yogyakarta and Solo.
The Research Center of Batik is already established,
located at Jl. Kusumanegara No. 2 in the eastern part
of the city. This research center has a complete facilities
of batik from the process of making, permanent exhibition
of batik from classical period, and modern design. The
institute offers an intensive course on making batik
for 3 months running six days a week starting 09.00
to 12.00. For a serious student this package is more
then enough to understand and mastering the process
of making batik both traditional techniques, stamping,
and printing.
Beside hand made batik mentioned above later development
also batik made by stamping and printing. This type
has more consistent pattern but less quality, as it
is not resist again washing agent such as detergent
and sun rays. Also the price of this type is far more
cheaper compared to batik made by hand. Most of mass
production of batik is produced by stamp of printing
and sold at the cheap market only to show that the outlook
of batik can be copied exactly with modern process and
one who wish to make collection with cheap price then
is available.
In the course of history, the pattern of batik also
undergo the changes or simple can be said experiencing
enrichement The arrival of the Dutch bearing the batik
called batik Belanda, the coming of Japan in Indonesia
resulting batik of Japan, and also the existence of
Chinese in Indonesia creating batik of China. But the
true batik is different in color and design. We know
the batik that is specific to the palace of Yogyakarta
as the symbol of the royal palace using specific colors
such as indigo, dark, brown, deep blue and maroon. These
colors are considered as the color of dignity. Mauve
is considered suitable only for young unmarried girls.
While modern batik with various influence above, using
more mixed colors such as crimson, yellow, and green
mixed with blue, yellow and black.
As batik is one aspect of Yogyakarta's arts that make
Yogyakarta known world wide, today batik is known world wide as a unique
ethnic crafts and art and is popular for various fashionable
materials. Batik cloths are on display at many galleries in
Yogyakarta City and the surrounding. It's quality and designs
are unique and having a great deal of pattern, which is probably
to much or profusely made, but local likes it very much. By
the continuing life of Batik art means the preservation of
Javanese culture, especially Javanese clothing art. Danar
Hadi Batik Collection, is one of the most complete gallery
with Batik even from the oldest trace of crafts. Preservation,
development on Batik art is continuing not only for local
need, but has been introduced to many countries and nations.
One can visit the workshop of Danar Hadi to see the whole
process of painting, and pattering the cloth. Everyone will
beadmired by the fact that Java has a very special product
for souvenir to their guests. A typical Batik Galleries in
Yogyakarta, staffed with hospitable and full etiquette of
Javanese women, with slow speaking tone, and and learnt body
movement during receiving guests. This is a specific attitude
of Javanese women performance due to their cultural background,
which is much in contrast to those Batak of North Sumatran
women. Batik Clothing, after being finished in a form of Batik
pieces, is not just as it is, but a material for various ladies
or men's fashion. From short sleeved, long sleeved, and even
for pans, short and skirts, and various fashion arts. This
type of daily wearing can be found among semi-informal meeting,
receptions, wedding, and many other occasions within the family
or wider group gathering. In Yogyakarta, or Central Java in
wider sense, various traditional dances will use batik as
the main dress and accessories for the dancer and the general
effects of the theatre. In Yogyakarta and Surakarta the formal
attire of the Sultan and his dignitaries is batik, both for
head dress, shirts, and down the waist wares. Based on the
techniques of making, batik can be grouped into three types.
One is the production by hand painting which quality is believed
as the best. Bali is known for batik making by ikat-technique, when the
threads as the basic former patterns are tied together to give
coloring and discoloring parts when it is died. Those parts
of threads that are tied will not get color, while those being
not tied will get color. To get various color the tying will
be done repeatedly until preferred number and type of color
are all with the thread. This technique is widely used both
in Yogyakarta, Surakarata and Bali. This type of daily wearing
can be found among semi-informal meeting, receptions, wedding,
and many other occasions within the family or wider group
gathering. In Yogyakarta, or Central Java in wider sense,
various traditional dances will use batik as the main dress
and accessories for the dancer and the general effects of
the theatre. In Yogyakarta and Surakarta the formal attire
of the Sultan and his dignitaries is batik, both for head
dress, shirts, and down the waist wares.
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